Sassafras of Paddington

The culinary institution started by Peter Clarke more than two decades ago and now owned by long-term venue chef-turned-proprietor Chris Zirbel has been a Latrobe Tce landmark, enduring almost as many paint colours and signage changes as it has years in service, but never losing its cottage charm.

Stepping into the weatherboard-clad eatery with its mismatched retro furniture, brown tiled floor, community noticeboard and greenery-bordered courtyard, the feeling is comforting and homely. It’s made even more so by the warm and jolly welcome from Zirbel.

The consummate hospitality professional knows how to work a room, cheerfully offering menu recommendations, explaining dishes and checking in on guests for valuable feedback.

On a scorching hot day, his drink suggestion is the ever-changing house-made brewed probiotic ($8.90), this time an icy cold, not-too-sweet Davidson plum concoction that hits the spot in the wilting heat.

Sassafras at 88 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington. Picture: David Kelly

There are house-made spritzes, too, in flavours like strawberry and lemon lime and bitters, which sound equally appealing, as well as HRVST St cold-pressed juices, smoothies, fancy milkshakes and some seriously smooth coffees made with Bear Bones beans.

But what Zirbel says keeps customers coming back is the dietary-friendly, all-day brunch offering, with plenty of vegan and gluten-free options running from a green papaya salad and a hummus plate, to a line-up of gourmet sandwiches. The two dishes that can never come off the menu, however, are the ricotta hotcakes ($19-$25.50), and the corn fritters ($21-$27), Zirbel says, claiming he’ll be “drawn and quartered out in the streets” if he were to ever remove them.

The hotcakes come in three incarnations: plain with honeycomb butter and organic maple syrup; with smoked bacon and grilled banana, or with lemon curd and blueberry compote (though the fruit compote changes with the seasons).

The corn fritters at Paddington;s Sassafras. Picture: David Kelly

We choose the latter, stacked three-high with a dollop of bitey, luscious curd on top and an avalanche of syrupy blueberries cascading down the sides. It’s this trio in unison that sets the plain pancakes apart, creating a sweet, sour and savoury splendour.

Meanwhile, the gluten-free fritters have apparently taken two years of recipe development to reach a level the kitchen is happy with – the batter bringing together fresh corn and their own house-made cream corn before deep-frying to form puffy, golden nuggets, rather than the ubiquitous patty shape.

They come as a trio, served with a whisper of vegan jalapeno-laced aioli, a smudge of onion relish and a wedge of avocado, with the option to add on two poached eggs, haloumi or smoked mushrooms, probably necessary for satiety sake, though it makes the dish a little pricey.

For a quarter of a century Sassafras has been a leading light of Paddington’s food scene, and with the passion and jollity of Zirbel at the helm, it’s sure to have another 25 years in it.

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SASSAFRAS OF PADDINGTON

88 Latrobe Tce, Paddington

0408 088 961

sassafrasofpaddington.com.au

Open Mon 8am-3pm; Wed-Thu 8am-3pm;
Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 7.30am-8pm and Sun 7.30am-2pm

Verdict

Food 3.5 stars

Service 5 stars

Ambience 3.5 stars

Value 3 stars

Overall 3.5/5 stars